It is not all that long ago that every major city had a couple of local breweries pumping out tasty and iconic regional beers. In Kansas City, that was Muehlebach’s. This brewery was a city fixture for close to 90 years and became as synonymous with Kansas City as barbecue continues to be. Eventually the company was sold off and closed, leaving Kansas City empty of locally produced beer for many years.
I am happy to report, that this past summer, Boulevard Brewing Company has resurrected a taste of local history in their American Pilsner. According to the beer’s label, it is inspired by and uses a similar recipe from the Muehlebach days. And a fine recipe it is. While tasting it for the first time, I found myself swishing it back and forth to try to capture all of the flavors hidden beneath the hoppy exterior. Boulevard has once again showed that they have no trouble bringing complexity and depth to their beer. The beer is of a consummately clear character and is nearly perfect amber-gold in color. It is perfectly effervescent giving it a very nice and light feeling on the pallet. If there is anything missing it is any hint of malt. There is a distinct lack of sweetness to compliment the otherwise excellent hop flavor. This has the effect of a slight overwhelming bitterness at the start of the taste that quickly passes.
This is an excellent summertime brew and I heartily recommend if you can get your hands on some to try it.